When Reality Exceeds Expectations

How many times have you looked forward to an event or trip or experience that you held in such a high regard only to be underwhelmed. It is often said the planning and anticipation for something significant is more fulfilling than the actual experience. These notions were flipped on their head or shall we say the decanter was turned over after my recent trip to the city and wine region of Bordeaux.

Bordeaux is arguably the most renowned and heralded wine region in the world. It’s history is long, it’s reputation for quality and prestige is cemented, and its wines considered the benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. With this in mind, my expectation was that it would be somewhat stodgy and elitist. Not at all.

 

outside the Clos Fourtet Chateau

We started our journey on the right bank (of the Gironde River) in the historical town of Saint-Émilion. The village itself is a historical gem, showcasing well-preserved medieval architecture and a rich cultural heritage. Saint-Émilion’s picturesque setting with cobblestone streets, historic buildings, wonderful cafes and restaurants, and of course world class châteaus were the perfect start to the trip. I don’t recall ever being so impressed with a setting like this, this combination of visual and cultural attributes surrounded by wonderful wines and winegrowing history. It is very easy to understand why Saint- Émilion is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

What was wonderful to see and experience was how their wines were integrated throughout the town. All wine lists were filled with great producers of different price points, some familiar and some not. The food lended itself to the style of wine produced there, Merlot and Cabernet Franc based blends. This is what you drink when you are there! The wines were soft and approachable, elegant yet expressive. Simply delicious. This reminded me of my experience in Champagne, where their wines were enjoyed with all types of food. I gained a greater appreciation for the wines of Saint Émilion, which is often caught in the shadow of its more renowned communes on the left bank: Pauillac, St Estephe, St Julien, and Margaux.

Next came our visit to the city of Bordeaux. My expectation was a more bustling and business environment. While it is truly a city with energy and activity, it was walkable and inviting, with brasserie’s on each corner, open areas where people congregated. The Sunday farmers market which is held right on bank of the Gironde River was amazing! We smartly went there hungry. I have never seen such a vast offering of artisan producers of cheese, charcuterie, pâté, fresh breads, pasta, wine as well as fresh oysters. One of our most memorable meals of the trip was sitting on the bank of river enjoying a sampling of all of these wonderful foods.

Visiting and experiencing the Médoc reminded me of my first visit to Napa Valley, (as well as Fenway Park and Wrigley Field). Home to so many world class chateaus that are always spoken of in such revered manner. Seeing a place live after seeing the pictures for so many years. Everything was brought to life! Contrary to the clay dominated soils on the right bank, the Médoc is largely gravelly soils where Cabernet Sauvignon thrives. The much anticipated drive up the D2 or Route des Châteaux , the main road that goes through the château in the Médoc. This scenic route winds for approximately 80 kilometers through the heart of the Médoc wine region, linking towns and estates like Margaux, Pauillac, Saint- Julien, and Saint-Estèphe. We visited and tasted the wines at two classified growths, Château Lascombes (2nd growth) in Margaux and Chateau Beychevelle (4th growth) in St Julien. Amazing! Stately yet inviting. You can feel the history all around, how vineyard workers may have been picking a hundreds of years before on the same land and vineyard.

One of my many takeaways was an important one from a wine appreciation standpoint: I treat how I drink the wines of Bordeaux differently now (like I do Champagne). I drink more of them! I used to think of Bordeaux as more special occasion wines, sometimes because of price, but more so just the prestige. I also was reminded that there are so many great Bordeaux at an approachable price point that are delicious and approachable in their youth, meaning you don’t have to age them for a decade to enjoy them. I urge you to look at the wines of Bordeaux a bit differently and explore some of them. The most recent vintages of the last 7-10 years have been fantastic. Now is the time.

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